Millions of people who have been forced to migrate from their homeland throughout history have moved not only their goods but also convey their cultures and their own tastes. What is the best immigration cuisine, which cuisines shine out introduced to our country along with migration?
Migration is the reality of the whole world. Today, there are over 250 million migrants in the world. So, many people live in other countries than their homelands. Especially, because of the Syrian War in recent years, it has always been painful for us. However, there are also different cultural situations caused by the concept of migration. Immigrants often bring their cultural values, not their possessions or money.
We have discussed the most of these cultural elements, namely the immigration cuisine. The food culture writer (food writer/gourmand writer) Nedim Atilla, who was born in the Aegean side and so is familiar with Aegean cuisine, says that "immigration is an important part of the cultural heritage movement". Firstly, we ask Mr. Nedim whether Syrian immigration has an influence on Turkish cuisine. He adds that Syrians live in their own ghettos for the time being. If they stay in Turkey and do not return to their homeland, new synthesis can be expected.
Three Major Migrations Affecting Turkish Cuisine
Three major migrations can be mentioned when Turkey's history is concerned, says Nedim Atilla. One of these is the Sephardic immigrating from the Iberian Peninsula from 1492 to 1510. Most of them settled in Istanbul and Izmir. The greatest feature of the Sephardic cuisine is that it includes plenty of vegetables. Eggplant, which is the most prominent food of this cuisine. The Sephardic cook the vegetables using olive oil, abundant lemon and sugar. I would like to provide you with some examples from this cuisine: Hanukkah fish, leek balls, zucchini almodrote, matzo and almond dessert called Kezada.
The second major one is the Balkan Immigration in 1911-12. In this period, people from Albanians to Macedonians, Serbs to Bosnians from many nations migrated to Anatolia and each one brought their own culinary artistry. For example, the famous pastry of the Bosnians is among the most popular flavors/tastes in Turkey. The dried meat (smoked meat) of the Bosnians is still sold in Bosniak neighborhoods in Istanbul. Semolina halva and pit roasted lamb (büryan) from the Macedonian cuisine, chickpea bread and tirit, boiled minced meat sauce poured on diced stale bread, from the Albanian cuisine can be given as examples.
The last major migration is the period of Population Exchange in the 1920s. Nedim Atilla saying that Turkey allowed immigrants from three main places. Thessaloniki and its surroundings constitutes a part of this immigration. They have a cuisine that is very similar to the Balkan cuisine, but also tastes unique to Thessaloniki. The second one comes from the Mora Peninsula, from Chios and Midilli. There are also those coming from Crete. Although they have similar aspects of these cuisines, they also have different and unique flavors. "Let's also give a few dishes from the population exchange cuisine: Papaz yahnisi (meat and shallots stew seasoned garlic), vinegar and cumin, Crete rice with artichoke, stuffed squash blossoms, radiccho with pepper ...
A Lost Cuisine ...
A documentary displayed in Randevu Film Festival organized in Istanbul in the past days provided interesting information about the Sephardic cuisine from immigration cuisines: a lost language, a lost cuisine. In the film of Deniz Alphan, a Jewish journalist and food culture writer, you can learn about culinary cultures of the Sephardic, whose great grandparents had to migrate from Spain to Anatolia 500 years ago.
In the documentary, the following anecdote is told to emphasize the importance of the eggplant in the Jewish cuisine: "The Spanish used to look for the eggplant smell to find out which house was the Jewish home in time!" The eggplant in the Sephardic cuisine is used in many places, from pastry to the main dish. In the film, the culture of kosher is explained in detail. The last butcher of kosher is also mentioned in the film. Such dishes as leek meatballs, zucchini almodrote, gayya con arros, matzo and rockling fish with sour plum sauce are told in the film. However, we learn that Sephardic meals of the Ottoman period are not known by the new generation and are now only cooked on special occasions in some houses. So, we understand that this cuisine is a lost cuisine!
You can taste it in a brand-new restaurant
When it comes to immigration, it is necessary to mention a restaurant to be opened. Ebru Baybara who is famous throughout the country with Cercis Murat Konagi in Mardin and is opening a brand-new restaurant in 42 Shops-Turkish Taste Museum in Maslak. This time, she focuses on immigration cuisine. Here, you can taste the various cuisine culture of migration from all over Turkey. On the menu of the place, there will be mainly light delicacies with olive oils, salads and appetizers.
